A utility patent is protection granted by a government for the way an article is used and the way it works. In jewelry, utility patents pertain to devices, such as earring clips or brooch fasteners. All utility patents reproduced on this website were granted by the U.S. government and remained in effect for 17 years after issue. Only utility patents referenced in descriptions of pieces in the TruFaux Jewels collection appear below.
Because findings were often produced by companies other than the manufacturer of the finished piece, the presence of a patent number may not offer much help in identifying the maker of an otherwise unmarked piece of jewelry. In addition, because utility patents remained in effect for so long, they are of limited use in precisely dating a piece other than indicating after what year it was produced.
Utility patent numbers for the years covered in the TruFaux Jewels collection are seven digits long. The first page of each patent contains technical drawings of the mechanism, with specific parts numbered. These numbers are referenced in the specification (the detailed description of the mechanism and the manner and process of making and using it), which follows the technical drawings. The specification includes the name of the person(s) to whom the patent is granted, the assignee (if any), the date of the application, and the number of claims (the specific attributes of novelty of the item, which define the scope of the protection of the patent).
Double Clip/Brooch Patents
Coro
Coro’s Duette mechanism, which was created by Gaston Candas of Paris, France, for precious jewelry was patented by him in the U.S. on March 31, 1931. Coro bought the patent in 1933 and launched their first Duettes in 1935. This product was so successful that other companies started inventing their own device for mounting separate clips on a single frame that could be worn as a brooch.
1,798,867 Issued to Gaston Candas in 1931
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Trifari
Trifari’s answer to the Coro Duette was their Clip-Mates. This mechanism, patented by Alfred Philippe on August 11, 1936, was actually the company’s second invention of this type. Gustavo Trifari patented a “Clip Brooch” on September 20, 1932 for Trifari, Krussman & Fishel, Inc.
| 1,878.028 Issued to Gustavo Trifari | 2,050,804 Issued to Alfred Philippe |
| for TKF in 1932 | in 1936 |
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Dress Clip Patents
Anthony E. Waller of Providence, Rhode Island, applied for a patent for a “Finding for Clasps” on September 8, 1930. The patent was issued to him on April 14, 1931. This device was used on some dress clips produced in the 1930s.
| 1,801,128 Issued to Anthony E. Waller |
| in 1931 |
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Earring Clasp Patents
Markus Jellinek’s patent for “Clip Jewelry”, which was applied for on October 4, 1944 and issued on May 21, 1946, is most often associated with the earring clasps used by Miriam Haskell starting in 1960. This combination clip-back/screw-back mechanism allowed the wearer to adjust the pressure of the lever.
Another type of “Clasp” was invented by Frederick A. Ballou, Jr., and Rogers T. Stafford. The patent, which was applied for on May 27, 1949 and issued on January 29, 1952, was assigned to B.A. Ballou & Co., Incorporated, a Rhode Island findings manufacturer still in business. Schiaparelli was one maker who used this particular earring clip-back mechanism.
| 2,400,513 Issued to Markus Jellinek | 2,583,988 Issued to F. A. Ballou, Jr., & |
| in 1946 | R. T. Stafford for B.A. Ballou & Co., in 1942 |
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