Design patent D146,961 issued to Adolph Katz in 1947 (application filed in 1946)
This 1940s Adolph Katz-designed gold-washed-sterling-silver brooch with deep blue topaz and ruby rhinestone flowers is a stunning example of the Retro Modern style and the pieces created by this company. The pavé center gathers the draped and pavé-trimmed metal. This piece from Coro Craft, the company’s high-end line, closes with a fold-over safety clasp.
A superbly detailed gold-plated leaf with an overlay of citrine glass stone flowers atop pavé silver-tone stems form this lovely example of 1950stailored jewelry by Schiaparelli. This brooch has elaborate, layered construction and a roll-over safety clasp. I'm not sure which way it was intended to be worn, so I'm showing both orientations in the photos – take a look and decide which you prefer.
Gold, black and clear seed beads along with gold-tone rope and a diamanté-studded handle form this whimsical Italian 1950s brooch by Ornella. The solid back supports the hand-beading and the trombone clasp. This company's pieces are well made, hard to date, and hard to find.
Three deep citrine-colored prong-set glass-stone calla lilies are tied in a matching accented bow in this 1940s Retro Modern brooch. The setting has a rose-gold wash over sterling silver, with a roll-over safety catch. Until I saw the drawing on the design patent (see the last photo), I thought the brooch should be worn the other way around, so the flowers look as though they're reaching for the sky! I've positioned this piece in that direction in the third photo. This lovely Adolph Katz design for Coro's high-end line, Corocraft, was also made in multi-colored stones – scroll down to see it.
This gold-tone late-1940s brooch by Elsa Schiaparelli is "designed as [a] dancing openwork leaf" (Becker) and set with emerald, ruby, sapphire and amber art glass cabochons in dog-tooth prongs. The outline of the leaf and stem are textured. This versatile and elegant brooch closes with a roll-over safety clasp. I think the brooch was meant to be worn with the leaf pointing down, as shown in the first photo, but the third photo shows the leaf pointing up -- you decide which you prefer!