"PENNINO" on the brooch back and on each clip-back
1954 "Vogue" ad
This 1950s rhodium-plated brooch and earrings set by Pennino features sapphire glass tulip-shaped stones topped with and surrounded by diamanté. (Except for their color, the diamanté-topped sapphire stones in this set are the same as those shown in a March 15, 1954 Vogue ad, which featured a gold-plated parure with “the exclusive Pennino white tulip stone”.) The detail and construction of this set are superb. The brooch closes with a roll-over safety clasp, and the earrings are clip-backs.
Named Jeweleaf, this 1950s set by Alfred Philippe features sapphire glass baguettes that outline diamanté-embellished maple leaves. The setting is rhodium-plated base metal. The brooch closes with a roll-over safety clasp; the earrings are clip-backs. An all diamanté version, described as "platinum-toned … paved with stones" and "one of two charming variations on a Spring theme", was advertised in the February 1, 1952 issue of Vogue. The brooch was $17.50, and the earrings were $15.00, for a total of $32.50. (In 1950, the average U.S. family's income was $81.50 per week.) Note that the photo of the brooch alone shows it in the position indicated in the design patent (last photo), but you can wear the brooch in any position you wish.
I couldn't decide if this 1940s Retro Modern rose-gold-washed sterling silver brooch with large faceted sapphire glass stones and diamanté accents by Reinad should be worn horizontally or vertically until I saw Anne Baxter wearing a set like this in the 1946 movie Angel on my Shoulder. Her brooch was perfectly placed in the vertical position on her dress at the base of its V-neckline. She even wore the matching earrings. The brooch has a roll-over safety clasp, and the earrings are screw-backs. I've included a photo of the brooch in the horizontal position, so you can decide if you prefer it that way. You can see a similar piece that was shown in the 1945 catalog of Bennett Brothers (a jewelry wholesaler). The page was entitled "New Pink Gold Finish on Sterling Silver — Styled by Master Craftsmen" (who were not named). The brooch shown in the last photo was $28.50 retail, and the earrings were $13.50, or $42.00 for the set. (While I don't have income statistics for the mid-1940s, to put these prices in perspective, the U.S. government reported that by 1950, the average American household's weekly income was about $81.)
This 1950s brooch and earrings set by Alice Caviness is bold and dazzling. The aurora borealis rhinestones in the gold-tone setting take on the color of the metal, catch the light and seem to dance. The starfish-shaped brooch has a roll-over safety clasp; the earrings are clip-backs. This set is perfect for an outfit in a warm color palette.
Jade art glass; amethyst, sapphire and citrine glass stones; and faux pearls set in gold-plated metal with an overlay of filigree flowers and leaves form this 1950s brooch and earrings set by Hobé. Notice the striations in the jade stones and the delicate flower and leaves in gold wire. The brooch has a roll-over safety clasp, and the earrings are clip-backs. This set is a great example of Hobé's'50s Glam look.