Free Shipping to the United States & Canada

Vintage Pearls for Modern Brides

Vintage Pearls for Modern Brides
June 27, 2019 Barbara Schwartz

Pearls have been called the gem of queens and the queen of gems. For centuries, they have been associated with love, marriage, seductiveness and femininity. Not surprisingly, pearls have been a popular choice for wedding jewelry for generations. High-quality imitations have been fashionable since Coco Chanel started wearing them herself in the 1920s. Whatever your style, vintage pearl jewelry can provide the perfect compliment to your wedding attire as well as a treasured, versatile keepsake to wear forever after. Let’s take a look at pearl earrings, bracelets, and necklaces from some of my favorite makers.

Louis Rousselet

This premier producer of handmade imitation pearls as well as glass and Galalith beads was a major worldwide supplier from 1922 – 1975. Rousselet’s workers coated glass beads with essence d’Orient (pearl essence), a solution of crystals made from fish scales and lacquer. Up to 10 coats were applied. Until 1940, pearl essence was made only in France.

He (and later his daughter Denise) also designed jewelry for stars of the Folies Bergère (including Josephine Baker) as well as couturiers such as Coco Chanel, Jacques Fath, and Robert Piquet. The 1950s pendant earrings in the photo above – seen here – are unsigned but can be attributed to Rousselet, based on their construction and components. His pieces were usually signed on only a paper hang tag.

Baroque pearl earrings in Louis Rousselet-style
Pearl and gemstone earrings by Louis Rousselet

Left: Baroque Pearl Earrings. Right: Pearl, Gemstone Bead & Rondelle Earrings.

Here are two additional pairs of 1950s earrings by this maker. On the left is a more traditional look – a cream-colored baroque pearl center encircled by a ring of smaller matching pearls. Though unsigned, these earrings have the traditional Rousselet filigree backs and ear clips. A very colorful and complex choice is on the right. This pair features a cluster of pearls along with blown-glass emerald, ruby, sapphire, and amethyst leaves, intertwined with rondelles. Though unsigned, these earrings are undoubtedly by this maker – they match a magnificent signed necklace and earrings set that you can see here.

For more Louis Rousselet jewelry, visit the boutique. Among the pieces shown is a stunning grey-and-white pearl sautoir and earrings set made for Chanel’s boutique in 1948-1952.

Miriam Haskell

Another maker known for lavish and imaginative use of imitation pearls in a variety of shapes is Miriam Haskell. According to Miriam Haskell Jewelry (by Cathy Gordon and Sheila Pamfiloff), from the 1920s until the late 1950s, one of two New York-based companies provided the firm with glass coated with pearl essence. In 1957 or 1958, the Niki Company in Japan became the exclusive supplier of pearls to Haskell.

Vintage pearl earrings by Miriam Haskell
Miriam Haskell bracelet with gray & cream pearls & rondelles

Left: Pearl & Russian Gold Drop Earrings. Right: Grey & Cream Baroque Pearl & Rondelle Bracelet

These classic earrings on the left feature a baroque pearl dangling from a pearl-studded Russian-gold-layered plaque. The adjustable screw-back that Haskell adopted in 1960 helps us date this versatile pair, which are fit for a bride as well as everyday wear. The bracelet on the right has two rows of baroque pearls with vertical rondelle spacers, all hand-wired onto a gold-tone hard-mesh-hinged bangle. This piece is also one that can be worn for a wedding and afterward.

You will find more vintage pearls as well as other Miriam Haskell creations here.

Hattie Carnegie

Initially a fashion designer, Hattie Carnegie started producing costume jewelry in 1939. Instead of copying fine jewelry, a common practice at the time, the firm’s designs were innovative, distinctive and often whimsical. These two pieces from the 1950s illustrate these characteristics.

Gold mesh necklace with dangling beads
Crystal bead bracelet with pearls & diamante

Left: Pearl, Crystal Bead & Gold Mesh Necklace. Right: Pearl, Diamanté & Crystal Bead Bracelet.

The necklace on the left is adjustable and meant to hug the neck. Pearls and faceted crystal beads dangle from the diamanté-embellished gold-mesh choker. The bracelet on the right has faceted crystals and pearls that dangle from the center structure of three rows of diamanté. Both pieces have lots of movement and sparkle.

To see additional jewels by Hattie Carnegie, visit the boutique.

For More Wedding Jewels

Check out the Vintage Bridal Jewelry collection.

For More Wedding Inspirations

See my Instagram page.

For More About Pearls

Watch this video from the Victoria & Albert Museum to find out about the lustre, longevity and luxury of both natural and artificial pearls, and their association with the birth of Aphrodite (Venus), goddess of love and beauty.

Comments (4)

  1. Patricia Gostick 4 years ago

    I enjoyed reading your article about pearls. I love their beauty and endless variety. Thanks!

    • Avatar photo Author
      Barbara Schwartz 4 years ago

      Thanks, Patricia!

  2. Patsy Campbell 4 years ago

    Hello Barbara… Yesterday I had a chance to read this blog about “Vintage Pearls for Modern Brides”. Your article was very enjoyable, and your examples of pearl bracelets, and earrings were stunning. A bride surely would be lucky to wear one of these pieces this summer on her wedding day! Keep up the excellent work.

    • Avatar photo Author
      Barbara Schwartz 4 years ago

      Thanks, Patsy! I always love to hear from readers!

Leave a reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *